We're trying to create an interesting wood door jamb detail on the interior of a high-end modern home.
We've shown the contractor a few ideas, but he likes the traditional "big piece of wood trim around every door" strategy. Mainly because it covers up any gaps or weirdness between the door, the rough framing, and the gyp board.
Dos anyone know of a good jamb detail that would alleviate his concerns while also creating a clean reveal or the appearance of a solid wood jamb, or some other clean modern look?
instead of running the studs all the way to the frame, you can end the studs with a piece of blocking that you paint black to create the back of the reveal. from there terminate the gypsum board (or whatever finish you're using) 1/4" to 1/2" short of the frame. it's a pretty simple reveal detail, but i've used it on many projects.
an addendum to jafidler's suggestion would be to use a Fry Reglet Reveal, and paint it black (or leave it with the clear annodized finish) and put it where he is saying the reveal goes. it's a little bit cleaner of a way to terminate the drywall. the metal piece pops in between the wood and the gyp, with a nail fin over the gyp to attach. you then mud up to the little lip and it looks perfect.
Not the best photos, but this is similar to what I believe jafidler is describing.
This application used an aluminum channel as a plaster stop to create the reveal, and was used as a base detail as well. Not to mention the nicest pocket doors I have ever touched.
yup, that's pretty much it. you can either use a reveal molding or an L trim molding depending on the size of the reveal you want. fry reglet is your one stop shop for many of those kinds of details.
The standard detail that I use is a single rabbeted door frame that is kerfed all the way around to accept a piece of L metal.
The drawback is that the doorframes have to be installed prior to drywall, so the contractor has to take extra steps to protect the jambs from getting f-ed up throughout the rest of construction. If they get dinged up, a little bondo & paint will fix them up. The drywall crew hates this detail too as L-metal has to be balls on straight...
Looks beautiful too - I'll see if I can dig up any pics...
Gordon also makes a ton of cool drywall reveals (similar to FryReglet) as an FYI...
Oh yeah - and you can't use that cheap shit tape on beadex crap - it'll blow out the first time somebody bumps it (movers bringing in furniture after your CofO is classic).
One thing the contractor probably hates (besides having to choose extra-straight studs, and running the metal channel straight, and keeping woodwork covered -- no Bondo on stain-grade work !) is that sheetrock tapes well only on the tapered edges of the sheet -- which are lost when the sheet is cut. The typical door and window trim covers a lot of issues, as it were. . .
Our contractor's concern is (as SDR says) that any exposed cut edge of sheetrock will look like shit. And the rough framing is guaranteed to be a little warpy.
But that Fry reglet reveal would do exactly what we're looking for: cover any defects and irregularities in both the sheetrock and the framing, and give us a nice reveal to emphasize the door frames. (Thanks le bossman!)
the Fry Reglet stuff is fantastic... and fantastically expensive. I had some heavy gauge ( 20 ga ) metal bent and painted it myself and it worked very well the fry reglet stuff was going to be about a $800.00 and I did the whole thing with paint for about $100.00 so depending on the detail you can get the metal bent pretty inexpensively and they can usually work down to 1/2" without too much trouble.
the fry reglet is quite expensive ... we recently did a detail where you get a jamb as thick as your framing ... first make a kerf at the middle of each end of the jamb. then you lay up your drywall just short of the kerf, and place an L-bead into the kerf. Its a pretty inexpensive detail, and looks pretty clean. Once again, you do need to lay the jamb before the sheetrock, but this seems difficult to avoid in most circumstance in this thread. it's not as accentuated as the reglet ... it makes the jamb more fade away more than anything.
but it would be nice if the gyp. stuck out. i don't think this could be accomplished with a pocket door unless the wall were very thick. and it wouldn't be a good idea with a swing door as the drywall would crush. could be accomplished with a swing door and a 10ga piece of steel to terminate the drywall, which wouldn't be as clean. or a piece of MDF mudded and taped to the drywall and painted to look like drywall.
I'm not sure why you assume the door would be hinged in such a way as to be able to open 180 degrees and contact the drywall. Wouldn't the door be placed within the jamb, perhaps centered on the wall thickness ?
So, how about if the sheetrock is given a metal edge, and the jamb is sized so that the trim ends up recessed as shown. The jamb is a separate and narrower unit than the wall framing. . .?
has anyone got any experience using drywall reveals for architectural elements? I have seen drywall reveals used around doorjambs and above baseboards in applications with double drywall so to create a half inch reveal between MDF baseboards and double layer drywall. But this is obviously a very expensive detail. I have also used 5/8" drywall reveal used for glass shelves to be installed. I found them while searching the web at http://www.mybuildingpro.com/drywall%20reveals.html Anyone know of any other resources for design ideas related to drywall design?
Oct 6, 09 10:18 pm ·
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Interior Wood Jamb Detail?
Hi All,
We're trying to create an interesting wood door jamb detail on the interior of a high-end modern home.
We've shown the contractor a few ideas, but he likes the traditional "big piece of wood trim around every door" strategy. Mainly because it covers up any gaps or weirdness between the door, the rough framing, and the gyp board.
Dos anyone know of a good jamb detail that would alleviate his concerns while also creating a clean reveal or the appearance of a solid wood jamb, or some other clean modern look?
What is the interior finish, I have some nice Eichler details that are pretty clean lying around here somewhere.
j
instead of running the studs all the way to the frame, you can end the studs with a piece of blocking that you paint black to create the back of the reveal. from there terminate the gypsum board (or whatever finish you're using) 1/4" to 1/2" short of the frame. it's a pretty simple reveal detail, but i've used it on many projects.
an addendum to jafidler's suggestion would be to use a Fry Reglet Reveal, and paint it black (or leave it with the clear annodized finish) and put it where he is saying the reveal goes. it's a little bit cleaner of a way to terminate the drywall. the metal piece pops in between the wood and the gyp, with a nail fin over the gyp to attach. you then mud up to the little lip and it looks perfect.
http://www.fryreglet.com/shape/pop/115.htm
http://www.fryreglet.com/
Not the best photos, but this is similar to what I believe jafidler is describing.
This application used an aluminum channel as a plaster stop to create the reveal, and was used as a base detail as well. Not to mention the nicest pocket doors I have ever touched.
ok wow, looks like we're all on the same page....
huh. how do you keep the door leaf from crushing the drywall?
i dig that though
oh. pocket doors. duh :p
yup, that's pretty much it. you can either use a reveal molding or an L trim molding depending on the size of the reveal you want. fry reglet is your one stop shop for many of those kinds of details.
The standard detail that I use is a single rabbeted door frame that is kerfed all the way around to accept a piece of L metal.
The drawback is that the doorframes have to be installed prior to drywall, so the contractor has to take extra steps to protect the jambs from getting f-ed up throughout the rest of construction. If they get dinged up, a little bondo & paint will fix them up. The drywall crew hates this detail too as L-metal has to be balls on straight...
Looks beautiful too - I'll see if I can dig up any pics...
Gordon also makes a ton of cool drywall reveals (similar to FryReglet) as an FYI...
Oh yeah - and you can't use that cheap shit tape on beadex crap - it'll blow out the first time somebody bumps it (movers bringing in furniture after your CofO is classic).
Gotta use the screw-on metal!
One thing the contractor probably hates (besides having to choose extra-straight studs, and running the metal channel straight, and keeping woodwork covered -- no Bondo on stain-grade work !) is that sheetrock tapes well only on the tapered edges of the sheet -- which are lost when the sheet is cut. The typical door and window trim covers a lot of issues, as it were. . .
Thanks everyone for the great suggestions!
Our contractor's concern is (as SDR says) that any exposed cut edge of sheetrock will look like shit. And the rough framing is guaranteed to be a little warpy.
But that Fry reglet reveal would do exactly what we're looking for: cover any defects and irregularities in both the sheetrock and the framing, and give us a nice reveal to emphasize the door frames. (Thanks le bossman!)
FRO -
Were those custom made pocket doors and frames, or is there a manufacturer that I might be able to contact? They're beautiful.
oh. i originally thought FRO's door trim was inset and the drywall was sticking out. i suppose we are all on the same page...good luck farwest.
farwest- not sure, but I don't think they were custom. I'll find out today.
On this project sheetrock was not an issue, as the interior finish was plaster.
farwest1-
sorry for the delay. Those doors and jambs ARE all full custom. $$$!
They are really a dream to operate, both the pocket and swing doors just glide and click into place.
the Fry Reglet stuff is fantastic... and fantastically expensive. I had some heavy gauge ( 20 ga ) metal bent and painted it myself and it worked very well the fry reglet stuff was going to be about a $800.00 and I did the whole thing with paint for about $100.00 so depending on the detail you can get the metal bent pretty inexpensively and they can usually work down to 1/2" without too much trouble.
Wait, bossman is right, right? The door casing is inset? The face of plaster is outboard of the face of the casing?
no. look again...
the fry reglet is quite expensive ... we recently did a detail where you get a jamb as thick as your framing ... first make a kerf at the middle of each end of the jamb. then you lay up your drywall just short of the kerf, and place an L-bead into the kerf. Its a pretty inexpensive detail, and looks pretty clean. Once again, you do need to lay the jamb before the sheetrock, but this seems difficult to avoid in most circumstance in this thread. it's not as accentuated as the reglet ... it makes the jamb more fade away more than anything.
So, the sheetrock seems to overlay the jamb, and just stops neatly. The jamb stock is 1 1/2" thick or so, so there's 3/4" of wood showing ?
the photo angle is throwing people off a bit, the jamb and plaster are coplanar.
(hopefully this works)
_______________|-|____|
plaster........reglet^..jamb
mmmmm, type diagrams....
heres a zoom-
Hey, good diagram. (I forget, but there's a name for those. . .)
but it would be nice if the gyp. stuck out. i don't think this could be accomplished with a pocket door unless the wall were very thick. and it wouldn't be a good idea with a swing door as the drywall would crush. could be accomplished with a swing door and a 10ga piece of steel to terminate the drywall, which wouldn't be as clean. or a piece of MDF mudded and taped to the drywall and painted to look like drywall.
I'm not sure why you assume the door would be hinged in such a way as to be able to open 180 degrees and contact the drywall. Wouldn't the door be placed within the jamb, perhaps centered on the wall thickness ?
i suppose you could, but then it wouldn't open all the way. usually that's not done unless it's one of those double swing doors
Yeah, that's right.
Isn't the sheetrock in the same place as the wood, in the photo above ? I guess you're suggesting a different detail, bossman ?
right, i'm talking about where the sheetrock sticks out, not in plane with the wood.
_______________l-------'
So, how about if the sheetrock is given a metal edge, and the jamb is sized so that the trim ends up recessed as shown. The jamb is a separate and narrower unit than the wall framing. . .?
heh heh -- I'll leave you in peace
has anyone got any experience using drywall reveals for architectural elements? I have seen drywall reveals used around doorjambs and above baseboards in applications with double drywall so to create a half inch reveal between MDF baseboards and double layer drywall. But this is obviously a very expensive detail. I have also used 5/8" drywall reveal used for glass shelves to be installed. I found them while searching the web at http://www.mybuildingpro.com/drywall%20reveals.html Anyone know of any other resources for design ideas related to drywall design?
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